Removing, Reconditioning, and Installing Rear Brake Rotors

To remove the rear brake rotors, first remove the brake pads as described above. Remove the two bolts holding the brake pad carrier to the stub axle, and suspend the caliper and pad carrier from the suspension or body to avoid stretching or kinking the brake hose. If the hose remains connected, it will not be necessary to bleed the brakes.

Remove the wheel bearing grease cap from the center of the brake rotor, and then remove the cotter pin, the nut lock, and the axle nut from the stub axle. Tugging on the brake rotor slightly if necessary, remove the thrust washer and the outer wheel bearing. Remove the brake rotor.

Use a screwdriver to pry out the dust cap and grease seal from the back of the rotor hub, and remove the inner bearing parts. If the bearings are to be replaced, or reinstalled in a new rotor, use a brass drift or punch to drive the outer bearing races out of the hub. A brass tool, softer than steel, must be used to prevent damage. On ABS-equipped cars, work through the wheel bolt holes to drive the toothed rotor off the inside of the hub.

Installation is the reverse of removal. See SUSPENSION AND STEERING for information on cleaning, packing, installing, and adjusting the wheel bearings. On ABS-equipped cars, drive the toothed rotor on the inside of the hub using a suitable tool. Install a new inner grease seal. Torque the brake pad carrier mounting bolts to 65 Nm (48 ft. lb.). Reinstall the brake pads as described in Removing and Installing Rear Brake Pads.

Brake rotors should only be resurfaced by removing an equal amount of material from both sides of each rotor. This work can be done by most local automotive machine shops. Table f lists brake rotor thickness and the minimum allowable thickness (after resurfacing). Parts which fail to meet the minimum thickness are too thin and should be replaced. Brake rotors should always be resurfaced or replaced in pairs.

Table f. Rear Rotor Reconditioning Specifications